Sewing machine



A. n. SCHOENKY.

SEWlNG MACHiNE. APPLICATION FILED AUG.28, .19|7.

Patented June 20,- 1922.

ua' @u RWA? A. R. SCHOENKY.

SEWING MACHIN-E.

APPLICATION FILED AUG.28, 19l7. Y

Patented J une 20, 1922.

7 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

I l n l l l l l l f f ffm @GSW A. R. SCHOENKY.

SEWING. MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED AUG.28. 19I7. 1,420,580. j Pantedlunezo, 1922.

sHEETs-sHEET 3.

ma ad a- A. R. SCHOENKY. SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED AULGJS. |917. 1,420,580. Patented Junezo, 1922'.

7 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

linker-afar. y MS'H 'A'. R. SCHOENKY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPucATxoN FILED Au ;.2a, 1911.

melma June 2o, 192:2`

41 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

A. R. SCHOENKY. SEWINGv MACHINE. l APPLICATION FILED AUG23| `I9I7. 1,420,580. Patented June 20, 1922'.

ISHEETS-SHEET I.

N I@ Row' W1 y.miensr n.' sc'H'oENKx, orsomnnvrnnn, MASSACHUSETTS, AssIeNon TOREEcE SHOE i v `imcHiNEmr coivIrANnor BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, n CORPORATION or MAINE.

meedeed i' A To 'all whom t may concern: l

Be it known that I, AUGUST R; SOHOENKY, aV citizen of the United States, residing'at Somerville, 4in the county of Middlesex and State of' Massachusetts, Yhave .invented certain new and" useful lmprovements in Sewing .M'achines, of which the following'l is a specification, reference'being had therein to the accompanying d ra'winmv T hisl invention relates to sewing machines; and more especially to sewing mal chines wherein a barbed needle is arranged so as normally to advance through the work toreceive va thread loop and Vto retract to drawA suoli loop through the work, and a looper is arranged to form a thread loop on the barb of the advanced needle, yand atake-up fory drawing tight the successive stitches, there being a'stitching shaft and timed connections from the shaftfor actuating the needle, theflooper andthe take-up in harmony through. cycley after cycle during lthe normal stitchingoperations'.

An example" of such machines isv one wherein' the barbed needle is curvedand cooperates with'the other sewing instruments to form chain stitches, for examplein the well knownwelt andwturn shoev sewing ma? chine. n 4 l he objects' of this invention are generally to improve the operationandiconvenienceof sewing machines of theY kind above referred to, and more especially to provide an improved means whereby whenthe machine is stopped the shoe lor other work V,may-be readily extractedA without hindrance from the needle or thread. Heretofore this object has been attempted by forming the objectionable loop on the needle barb when stopping the machine and'then in someway reversing' or'operating the machine or certain of itsparts-to remove theiloop orfree it from the needle; but all such"devices"v have required either a Areversingstop motion, which ishighly objectionable, ,or complication and weakening of mechanism. f

"To"l make the present invention clear I will iirst explain the cycle of stitching movements.'- -Each stitch may be said to be completed when it has been drawnftight by the take-up. At this moment the needle is extending through the work to or nearly to its advanced position; the looper 'now moves 'so as to place a loop on the needle barb'. This is followed by the retraction of the Application iledV August `28, 1917.

SEWING MAcriINE n Y l Specieetii 0f IetterSPatet, latentedJ une 20, 1292 ?.V

Smau No. 188,544.. l

needle, which draws the loop through vthev work,'.while at the same time the take-up gives thread. After `the ycomplete needle retraction it next advances through the loop Jus'tformed, penetrating the work at anew point, and fas 'theneedle advancecontinues tlietake-up operates tof draw tight 'the' thread and loop, which usually is accomplishedf'by the time theneedle again vvreaches its advancedjposition. This completes the cycle. Whenever the machine isstoppedf unless this cycle of movements is completed,

lthe final stitch remains incomplete and loose.

if the Shaft be stopped when the vneedle is advanced, it is impossible to remove the work because engaged'by the needle'. lf the shaft is'advance'dv somewhat'lfurther so as :to retract the needle through thenvork, this drawsfanother or lextra thread loopthrough the work which againV cannot lbe extracted from the machinelbecauseheldby such extra loop and needle barb.

' l/Viththe present invention I'Obviateall these difliculties'bya meansA ofany 'suitable nature forming part of lor associatedwith the needle actuating connections for render ing abnormalV orjinop'erative" the needle stroke or timing when stopping thermachine, whereby during 'the' forward ymovement of the'stitching shaft'the needle will not come to its loop receiving position al'- though the looper perform its normal loop forming ymovement. as usual.` 'I preferably accomplish 'this by 'meansofan abnormal needle stroke, forexample by mail ing".p'ro" vision -to reduce the extent of advance `of the needle so that` although it .will .properly co-ac't with the take-up it will notmove to the usual advanced. pointwhere in the regular cycle itreceives a loop from the l'ooper.- The means forgiving this result being associated with the needle actuating'connec'- tions permit the various rmotions and 'rotations otherwise to proceed as usual, and the lshaft' being iinally stopped at the proper point the work and needle are disengaged and'there'is no objectionableextra loop-to prevent the convenient extraction "of the work. Y Wf 1 I do not claimltohbo the first. to secure these Vbroad results V"by control' of needle movement/in the final cycle, the presentimproved mechanismbeing subordinate to the pending application of F. Valois, filed July 31, 1916, Serial No. 112,230.

p mal manner at full speed.

Figure 2 is a partial left elevation ofthe head of the machine, taken partly in section on the plane 2.-2 of Fig., 4.

Figure 3 shows thev linal stopped position of the control disk or camshown in Fig. 2.

Figure 4 is a plan view of the parts shown in Fig. 2'. j

Figure 5 is a front elevation, partly in central section, of the mechanism adjacent Ythe left end kof the stitching shaft.

Figure 6 is a left elevation, partly in section, on the plane 6-6 of Fig. 4, showing the mechanism to the right of said plane and for convenience also the members 57 and 58, which in reality are to the left of said plane. Fig. 6, like Figs. 1, 2, 4 and 5, shows the parts in their position at the end of the stitch cycle with the needle advanced, the parts being also shown in dotted lines with the needle fully retracted.

Figure 7 is a view similar to Fig. 6 showing the position'off the parts at the end of a stitch cycle whenA the present invention has come into play to bring about an abnormal short needle stroke and prevent the formation ofthe objectionable extra loop.

Figure 8 lisy a detached plan view of certain parts shown also in Figs.q4 and 6.

Figure 9 is. a section of the same parts taken on the plane 9-9 of Fig. 6.

Fig. 10 is a left elevation, and Fig. 11 a plan view, showing that part of the mechanism which has to do with the actuation of the take-up.

Fig. 12 is a left elevation, and Fig. 13 a plan view, showing that part of the mechanism which has to do with the actuation of the looper.

The shoe X is shown in itsk proper or inverted position in which it is supposed to be guided by hand as the stitching progresses. The upper x of the shoe, the welt or strip as, and the insole m2 or rather the lip m3 thereof, may be mutually united by the stitching in this type of machine. Above the base 11 of the machine is a tall post 12 carrying the head or stitching mechanism 13 at the top. The actuating or stitching shaft 21 may be power driven by the belt 14 engaging on power pulley 15 which through bevel gears 16 rotates a grooved pulley 17 from which the belt 18' extends upwardly toward the head of the4 machine and engages a grooved extension 19 ofthe hand wheel 20 which is the thread hook 26, the take-up 2.7,.the feed point 28, and the welt guide` and feed' member 29, all of which may be. substantially as shown in said pat-ents. As the stitching shaft normally advances during.A the stitching, it actuates or controls. the various instruments in harmony in a manner generally well known or made clear in said. patents. For example, the looper 23 which` is: hollow for the passage of the thread y, is rotatable about its own longitudinal axis 30 forv somewhat over one rotation and then return so that the nose or extremity ofthe vlooper in its normal movement passes or forms a loop around the barb of the advanced needle 22, as will be clear from Fig. 6. The details of the looper connections do not concern the present invention which indeed enables the heretofore known type of looper and connections to be employed without change-in form or operation. The ltrain of actuating elements includes bevel .gearsl 30a between the looper and the short shaft4 30h which carries a pinion 30c oscillated by a swinging rack 30d, which takes its motion from link v and lever connections from the crank shaft 21., as shown in Figs. 12 and 13 and more fully explained in said patents. Also the take-up 27 may be ofthe well known type swinging about an axis 4l so as to yield and take-up the thread at the proper points in the cycle. The connections are suHicientlfy shown in Figs. 10 and 11 and explainedv in said patents.

Coming to the needle mountings and connections which more particularly concernus, the needle is shown rigidly secured upon a carrier or block 35 fitted to oscillate. about ico an axis or pivot 36 so that` in the advance stroke the curved needle swings concentrically through the insole lip, the upper and the welt, to its loop receiving position adjacent the looper 23'.

The connections from the stitching shaft 21 to the needle block and needle may comprise the following mechanical members.. Formed upon the shaft 21 is a crank 38. A pitman or link 39 extendsfrom this crank to the extremity of a swinging arm 40 fulcrumed at 41. From the pivot or studl 42,

is ulcrumed on astud or shaft'47. The

lever 45,46, is normally rigid throughout its length during stitching, .and its forward or free, end is connected by a curvedl link 48 with the needle. block 35. f

lInFig. 6 the referencey numbers are applied'onlyto the parts shown infull lines indicating the extreme advanced position of Vthe needle. The extremefretracted position isjclearly indicated by the dotted lines in the samefigure. Normal operation ofthese .parts during stitching is that as the crank 38 travels around and around, the link 39 causes the arm 40 to swing up and down and thence through the link 43 swings the needle lever up and down, this motion being comlmunicated by the link 48 to the needle block and needle, allin harmony with the movements of thel looper, take-up and other `-in'- struments. u f l 'In ,order to render the needle stroken- .operative at suitabletimes so `that the needle vwill not come .to its loop receivin-g position, ,l introduce into or associate with the needle actuating connections a suitable contrivance 44, 45, 46,47, 48, or 3c. AS an illustrative embodiment which lis of practical utility, simplicity andvconvenience, l have taken the needle lever'45, 46 and constructed it of two portions so .as to permit at the proper time a relative movement which can render abnormal the needle stroke and which canbe so controlled that when the machine. is stopped,'the needle, during 'the advance of the s titching shaft, will, faill to move forwardtoits loop receiving position. TheV stud.44, which connects the two lever parts 45k and 46, permits thefouterlever part 46 to zmove. relatively so as tov produce the desired Aeffect which isl transmitted through the subsequent connections 48, 35, 36, to the needle. In .the normal operation this action is prevented by reason of a rigid extension 49 Yfrom the lever part 46 to the ulcrum shaft 47. It isobvious that so long as the extensionz49, is held in rigid relation to the fulcrum 47 or the arm 45 lthere will be no ,abnormal -movement, but that if thevextension 49 be relatively swung about the, pivot v44 this will swing. the leveropart 46 and change the throw' of the needle. The-ex- V tension 49 where it engagesthe fulcrum -47 VVis formed with a slotted headO so that it may swing from its normal position indi- `cated in Fig.` 6 to an abnormal position indicated in Fig.` 7. y

Obviously, the effect of swinging the eX- tension 49 downwardly from the Fig; 6 to the Fig. 7 position during the advancelof the needle, will be. to swing upwardly the lever part 46 andthe link 48 therebyrelatively .retarding -theneedle-v' Thus,y asy shown' 1n #Fig A7, the need'leinstead of advancingcompletely toits.. loop receiving positionv Which is indicatedin dotted-linesyiscaused toladformedywhether by hand ori`oot 'control,v

or whether timed by 'a'camor itsequivalent, or operated by or simultaneously withas'top motion, may be nvariously modified. I-'have to a'xed stud 53, sov thatiby means offa 80 shown ,a1 downward link 51fffrom theI eX V A`tension-49 and from this a link 52 connected third link 54 the linksy 511 andr52 maybe `brought to their Fig. 6 position which :locks vthe extension I 49 as shown,y ork fmayfl* be `brought to ythe Fig. 7 position', duringl which adj ustmentthe extension 149 is swung" down,

as shown',-thus relativelyy `litingithe forward end of .the Aneedle lever and retarding` the advance ,oli-.the needle, as explained. i The link 54 maybe actuatedby an 'armi 55eX- v tending downwardly from a rock'y s'haftf56 )which at a .convenient point' in itsllength is which might be applied at'any point inthe f train of connections 21, 38, 39,140, 41, 42, 43,

yprovided with an arm`571byr`whichzitymay desired be cam effected in' `proper timing' .The mechanical .structure 1 andV arrangement of fth1e"inembersf47,`50,and 51, is shown in fplan view in Fig; 4,; andV the details are shown in Figs.' 8 and 9'where it is indicated thatthe upper endv ofv the" link'. 51 lis engaged by ka tongue and 'groove- `rdevice" 59 with v,the head 50 of v the extension 1 49 so* that the; flink -may maintain its'engagementwith the head `for raising `and lowering it,`asV explained,

kwithout interference 'from theswinginggo'f the head.` J For convenience Al have shown a pe'dal operated control for the described needle stroke `modifyingfaction as will be fully explained.

Thed'riving power may be uncoupledby shifting either .the belt 14 from pulle'y`1'5*V or belt 18 lfrom pulleyigroove19,.and fitf'is convenient to arrange that kthe same pedal action AwhichV controls VtheV needle stroke modifying mechanismuwill also effect .the

shifting of the beltr to throw 'off power,and preferablyv will also apply Ssome kind 'of 't stopping device to bring the' shaft finally to' rest in a definitepositionwwith the Vneedle disengaged `lfrom the .work and,fas a conse# iquence of .the .present invention, with .the .needle barb free.otheathreaid- 'i For thisV purpose various types of stop motion may befemployedg,such for exampleias that de-- nary 20, 1914, wherein the'shaftpasses scribed -in my Patent No. 1,085,093foflfJan-l i Ithrough progressively Adecreasing driving speeds fto Athe `stopping point; or that ydescr-ibed `in Patent "No, 818,159 of April .17, 1906, wherein the driving speed is first stepped down to a fixed slow speed which is VVthen thrown lout 4and stoppage caused by impact. v I will describe an arrangement wherein when the machi-ne -pedal l'is released :a control cam` and a stop motion are .thrown Ainto action, the cam acting `during the nal ad- 'the spring 61. A rod v62 is lifted 'when vthe -pedal is :let up and this acts by a vreversing lever 63 Ito `pull downwardly the rod 64 which, ias :seen in Fig. 5, extendstothe horizontal Varm ofia bell crank 65, `the otherarm .of which shifts a slide rod'66 carrying a Ibelt Ashifter 67, which throws the 'belt 18 'from its operative pulley ygroove 19. In |this way lthe power is disengaged. 'From the ztop of lerly arranged to `rod 64 vextends a link l69 to a 4second Vbell crank- 70, ythe upward arm y'of which carries 'a stud engaging a grooved collar 71 formed upon the right hand side of a disk 7-2 :keyed to the shaft 21` This disk at its right face is formed with a cam groove 73 normally cam vstud 58 previously mentioned. When .the machine is running the disk 72 is 'held to the left, as seen in Fig. 5. Vhen the disk is moved to the right in stopping the machine it rwill encrage with the lstud 58, as seen in Fig. 2. Zfter suchengagement the eccentric portion of the cam 73 fthrows the stud 58 upward kand thereby, as `explained on Fig. 6, swings 'the links 51 and 52, depresses the extension 49, and retards lthe needle in its final advancing movement. Fig. 3 which shows the shaft finally stopped by "impact, indicates that the stud 58 has performed its function and has returned to its normal position thus restoring the .parts in readiness for further stitching and with the needle disengaged from the work to permit the latter :to be removed and vreplaced.

The disk 72 is guarded against shiftingto .the right at the wrong'time not only by the stud 58, as explained, -but by a .pin 74 which normally Istands to the yright of the disk,

as seen i-n Fig. 5, vand is yieldable rdownwardly against the 'resistance of a vspring 75. The disk, as more clearlyY shown in Figs. 2 and 3, is provided with a peripheral recess V76 and va stop shoulder 77, all propsecure the correct order of events. rlhe disk'can only shift to the right as itsrecess 76 comes opposite to the pin 74, and thereafter the shaft makes between a "pin 74so that `when the of fthe recess 76 and n device 88 which thereby applies 'friction to the shoulder or projection v77 of :half and a'whole revolution ipriorkfto the impact of the Vshoulder 77 against the Vpin 74 which't'hus gives final stoppage in a position with the needle .out-:of the work.

In order to reduce .the 4shock of vimpact :a brake :may be appliedbetween the throw off `of power and the impact andthis brak- 'i-ng'action may involvea slow lforward drive so as to preclude premature stoppage.

-When the belt 18 is shifted from the pulley a sleeve 84 which is loose upon `the shaft 122,1 but -adapted fto `be prevented 'from lrotation `by a friction band 85 hung from 'the l bracket 86 mounted 4ontheishaft bearing 87.

The pinions -82 and 83 are-of `different num- --ber of teeth so Vthat when the member 80 is rotated by the belt 18 it can imparta slow differential movement to the shaft. The

brake band '85 vis applied to hold the 'sleeve stationary by means of adevice 88 which is connected to rise and fall with the stop Vdown by the disk the brake lis applied lfor about three-fourths a rotation and then -re- Y leased. inoperative, but -ad-apted to engage with'the The action of such a stop motion-'is that after 'the pedal isreleas'edthe disk 72Y'tends to 'mover toward the right-and does so as'the pin 74co1nes opposite the disk recess 76, .while at the same time'the' Ibelt is Vshifted 'from the pulley 'groove 19 to the 'groove 79 of the annular member 80. Immediately the 'pin 74 is cammed down as it passes out this pulls down lon the sleeve member 84. This member through the gears v81, 82, 83, tends to impart slow drive tothe shaft, and the employment of friction `in bringing the Vsleeve `to rest insures an easy and shockless 're-Y tarding.

The slow speed drive continues until finally the pin 74 is im. acted by the tie disk which stop pin ris thrown gives finalnstoppage with 'practically no` shock, and the slight elevation ofthe `pin "74. disengages the friction device 88y thus 'releasing the slow speed drive. In the meanwhile, as the final stitch 'cycle Awas completed the needle was prevented from advancing to loop receiving position and therefore, subsequently, when the shaft is stopped with the needle out of the work it is also free of thread. The abnormal'or shortened advance stroke of .the needle which prevents its taking the loop, is fol- Y `lowed by a correspondingly shortened re# tracting stroke, as explained, so that .atfthe nal stop 'the parts are again all in vnormal "93 carrying it, and this may f fulcrum shaft to which the bell crank leverV relation. For' restarting it is merely necessary to depress the pedal, and as the' cam 73 is thus caused to disengagethe roll-4 58 no further ab-normal action takes place but the two parts 45 and 46 of the needle lever A"retain their rigid and substantially'"unitary character The belt moving to the pulley V19 causes full speed drive, and stitching proceeds. ,v H A. contrivance may be used for normally holding the links 51, 52 in alignment, and thereby the two parts 45 and 46 of the needle lever in rigid relation during the stitching; and instead of a mere spring I prefer a positive locking contrivance for this purpose. This may be applied, for example, to thearm 57. A locking arm 90, see Fig. 5, which is provided with a locking pin 91, is adapted to be swung so that the pin will enter the socket or hole 92 in the arm 57, and when this occurs the arm, and consequently the links 51, 52, are held against movement from their normal position shown in Fig. 6. The locking lever 90 may be swung by means 4of fulcrum shaft be the same is secured, so that, when the stop motion is brought into action by the movement of the disk or cam 72 to the right the swinging of the lever 70 and the fulcrum shaft 98 causes the pin 91 to be withdrawn, so as to unlock the needle stroke modifying device. 'When the treadle is depressed for restarting, the locking pin is again swung into engagement with the hole in the arm 57.

In one aspect it will be seen that this invention comprises a means operative during the stitch cycle for shortening or otherwise rendering abnormal the needle stroke, whether or not used as specifically illustrated for the purpose of missing a thread'loop at the time of stoppage so as to leave the work free for removal. The pedal may be con sidered a controller for putting into effect the timing device or cam, and also the stopping device. The cam moving in time with the stitching shaft co-ordinates the needle stroke modifying device with the motions of the other stitching parts. Specifically, my preferred way of securing the modification of needle stroke is through one of the links or levers comprised in the needle actuating mechanism, the same having its effective length or shape varied by shifting of fulcrum, bending or otherwise.

lIt will thus be seen that I have described a sewing machine embodying the principles and attaining the objectsand advantages of the present invention, and other advantages will be apparent to those skilled in the art.

VSince many matters of combination, ar-

rangement, design, detail and other features may be indefinitely varied without departing from the underlying principles, I do not form a thread 4 y vanced needle in each normal stroke, and means for changing the needle connectionsintend tolimittheinvention such features except in so far as speciiiedfinthe appended f claims.

what is animadas:

1. Ina chain ,stitchl sewing vmachine, ya

stitching shaft., a barbedi needle, vconnections from the shaftv for reciprocating the needle throu eh" a knormal stroke, means to to give the needle an abnormal stroke comprising a toggle device arranged to shiftV the fulcrum of one of the members of such connections, adapted to cause the needle t0 advance from normal retracted position to a non-loop-taking position and thereupon to retractwithout a loop.

2. In a chain stitch sewing machine, a stitching shaft, a barbed needle, crank, link and lever connections from the shaft for reciprocating'the needle through a normalV stroke, means to form a thread .loop on the barb of the advanced -needle in each normal stroke, a stop motion adapted to stop the machine with the needle in retracted position, and means operative in the Alast stitch vcycle comprising a toggle arranged to shift loopl on the barb of the' ady able in shape to give the needle an abnormal stroke, to avoid taking the thread loop.

4. In a chain stitch sewing machine, a stitching shaft, a barbed needle, connections from the shaft for reciprocating the needle through a normal stroke, means to form a thread loop on the barb of the advanced needle in each normal stroke, one of the members of the needle connections being a compound lever, normally rigid, but adapted to have one 'part shifted with respect to another to give ,the needle an abnormal z stroke, to avoid taking the thread loop.

5. In a chain stitch sewing machine, a

stitching shaft, a barbed needle, means to` Vform a thread loop on thebarb of the advanced'needle in each normal stroke, connections from the shaft for reciprocating the needle through a normal stroke and actuating the loop forming means in harmonyl with the needle, one ofthe levers of such connections being in two parts, normally rigid, but capable of being relatively swung to change the lever shape, whereby to give Van abnormal actuation to avoid the formation of a loop upon the needle.

6. Machine as in claim 5 and wherein the outer lever part is pivoted to the fulcrumed part and is provided with an extension toward the lever fulcrum, and means adjacent the ulcrum acting on such extension to effect such change of lever shape.

7. Machine as in claim 5 and wherein the .10 vouter lever part is pivoted to the fulcrumed partand is provided with anextensiontowardthe lever fulcrum, and means adjacent the fulorum acting on vsuch extension Ito effect such change of lever shape, consisting of a toggle device which normally is straight and holds the lever par-ts rigidly locked in normal relation.

In testimony whereof, I have alxed my signature hereto.

AUGUST R. SCHOENKY. 

